Home » Cool Area » Short Readings for a Water Sports Fan! » The Big Step Down in Surfing

 

 

Due to a whole series of events, I hadn`t been able try out my new stick until it had gathered a considerable amount of storage dust, it having being in my bedroom for so long, so I get a call from a buddy sayin’ he`s heading out if I wanted to tag along?  `Hell yes sir` - I got my gear together faster than what you could say “stoked” and off we went.

 

`Where we headin?`
`Oh Castlefreke ` he replies.
`Balls` me thinks.

 

To be honest, I have absolutely no illusions about my level of surfing.  When I was beginning this whole surf thing I was warned not to go to Castelfreake till I was fairly sure of what I was doing.  The waves are bigger and there be rips, big uns!  Had I bitten off

more than I can chew here then? 

 

 

We arrived, got changed, walked down to the waters edge, and all of a sudden I`m no longer so sure about just how fine this session is going to be.  These waves are way bigger than the normal “ripples” I have experienced in my earlier sessions, and its even more powerful looking when you’re lying at the bottom of `em waiting for that wall of water to come crashin down on you.  Add to this the fun of tryin’ to balance on a new short board - surely a recipe for a good session?!?

 

In a vain attempt to look cool, I tried to duck dive the first real wall of water (clearly it`s as easy as it seems)...but failed miserably.  My board got grabbed by the waves, in course flipped around the place with me stuck to it – it was defo back to turtle rolls as opposed to duck dives for me!  As he is always sympathetic, my buddy sits back on his board, giggling on sight of my feeble attempt to cope with the situation.

 

I spent most of the day just tryin’ to get used to this whole new arena of surfing.  The guys around me are all ripping it up and I soon realise that this ain’t no half weekender`s break - all these guys are serious about what they`re doing.  I did try to catch a few, only to discover that this board is much less forgiving in terms of balance, but man it`s a rocket.  At first I hardly even try to stand, this new found speed was thoroughly enjoyable!

 

 

A two hour long heavy massage from the sea, interspersed with frequent gulps of seawater, it was time to call it a day and head in.  I sat on the shore for a while and watched the other guys rip it up.  From the beach, the waves never look too big...surely my new board can`t be that hard to get up on.  But no, the brain kicks in to remind me that yes the waves are as big as they were a minute ago, and with the arms and shoulders now very tired, it was time to get changed. 

 

The following morning, several beers the previous evening later were showing their ugly head in the form of a raging hangover, but I find myself replaying the whole day.  All I want is to get back out there and master those waves again.  Dragged, kicking and screaming out of my comfort zone, I need to jump in again for another shot.  Bring it on I say!

 

 

Thanks to TAD for sharing his experience with us all!